2/24/09

RODARTE FW 09.

Rodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Rodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Rodarte Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear


Designers  Kate and Laura Mulleavy focused on textures and fabrics for the Rodarte Fall Winter 2009 collection.  The Mini dress silhouette was the canvas for beautifully constructed artful looks.    
 
Each look was worn with towering thigh high patent leather boots by Nicholas Kirkwood that wrapped closely around the model's spindly legs.  These bondage style boots had a hosiery effect that worked well with the clothing of this collection.    The nude matte makeup and slicked back hair resulted in an android like uniformity and  prevented any distraction from the visually stimulating looks. All of these elements created a romantic yet futuristic vibe that was incredibly striking.  
 
One of my favorite looks featured Kelly green silk  that was worked into a tinfoil like texture skirt and contrasted with it's delicate paper mache-esque neutral colored top.  Other looks featured fabrics that resembled marble or a water color painting.  One dress blended so perfectly with the model's skin it was as if she was wearing wallpaper.  Other looks had fabrics that were virtually copper and other metals.   The manipulation of fabrics truly played with our perception of reality.  Never have fabrics so closely take on qualities of stone and metal.  Many looks featured  arrays of material such as leather and silk working in perfect harmony in intricate collages.  
 
Knits also played a complementary role and could be seen in thick scarves and  fringed cardigans worn over the dresses.  They complemented looks without appearing as random embellishments.    In every look each piece fused together effortlessly creating seamless looks that were never over styled.  
 
Some may criticize this collection for it's lack of variety of silhouettes but it is clear that this was completely intentional.  The Mulleavys presented a collection that was literally fashion as art and changing the canvas would have made this collection less effective and extraordinary.  This stunning collection is fit to be displayed on the walls of any museum , but will look best displayed on the most versatile canvas of all: the woman.  

2/19/09

FASHION WEEK: PROENZA SCHOULER FW 09.

Proenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearProenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearProenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearProenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Proenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearProenza Schouler Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Proenza Schouler's Fall/Winter 2009 collection can be summed up in 3 words: clean, fresh, and modern.  
The beautiful textures and color palette stole the show in this collection. Luxurious fabrics such as tweed and silk  and rich colors worked in harmony to create an elegant and visually stimulating collection.  A gorgeous midnight blue cropped wrap neck pea coat shined next to a chic shade of charcoal gray pants.  A camel colored coat contrasted beautifully with its salt-and-pepper fur collar. Mixed tweeds were executed succesfully in layered looks.    Most looks included semi sheer tights and versatile copper toe platform heel boots that added to the cohesion of the collection.   The long cuffed winter short made many appearances paired with opaque colored tights; a very wearable look that is  perfect for Fall.  

Dresses were impeccably constructed and were a major cornerstone of the show.    Some of the most impressive ones came in rich colors of silk that were contrasted by black contouring or worn over sheer long sleeved basics. Spruce colored silk dipped effortlessly into inky black on a sleek off the shoulder dress. A dark violet dress with bustier details and quilted silk was breathtaking.  

Proenza Schouler FW 09 is one of the strongest collections I've seen this season.  Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez continue to be creative without abandoning their clean and tailored aesthetic.  This collection will be a major staple for the stylish "downtown girl" that values the classic over the trendy.    

2/18/09

FASHION WEEK: RAG AND BONE FW 09.

Rag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearRag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Rag & Bone Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag and Bone showed a refreshingly modern collection this fashion week.   Never has utilitarian style looked so chic.  Every look was impeccably tailored.  Menswear pieces such as tuxedo jackets and double breasted vests were made subtly feminine without losing their masculine charm; androgyny at its best.    American classics such as the oxford were given a breath of fresh air when paired with a floral dress and an obi style belt.   Leggings were reworked with eye catching contour seams and contrasting fabrics and colors.  Even oxford pumps looked novel when worn with these innovative looks.  
The color palette featured a well selected array  of grays and blues with hints of red from flowers peeking from behind lapels to minimalist tassels hanging from the models necks. I immediately fell in love with the gray and abstract tweed tail coats which will likely be highly coveted items from this collection.  I was also impressed by the "haraki" pants, Rag and Bone's "answer to the dropped-crotched look."  These pants are a perfect harmony of baggy and tailored  and the laced legs adds a unique and visually stimulating touch.  
This collection was as cohesive as a uniform without adhering strictly to conventional standards.  A charming paradox resulting in a genius collection.    

FASHION WEEK: THAKOON FW 09.



Thakoon Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearThakoon Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Thakoon Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearThakoon Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

As soon as the first model walked the runway wearing a grey A-line coat with grey leather gloves it was clear that Thakoon's fall winter collection would be an ultra feminine one.  

Overall the collection was very polished featuring modernized versions of lady-like classics in eye catching shades.  The classic fur coat and Russian style  fur hat came in shockingly bright primary colors.  A Park Avenue style coat was turned on its head by its neon yellow color and matching yellow fur trim.  A simple sheer black dress was brought to life by a red and green fur cape.  Some of the best looks featured fur coats with an exposed zipper and 3/4 length sleeves that highlighted an array of elegant long leather gloves.  These gloves added a sense of nostalgia for the times in which a women would not go out in public without this vital accessory.  The collection also featured a few stand out dresses such as an asymmetric beautifully textured empire waist gown and an asymmetrical black sequined mini dress with an exaggerated bow detail on the shoulder.  
Unfortunately, simplicity seemed to breed banality in this collection.  A few of the looks such as a sapphire blue silk dress felt trite and other oversimplified looks looked like they could have came right off the racks of Banana Republic.  However these isolated pieces were not enough to bring down the overall beauty of this line.   
This collection is a very wearable one that I predict will do well in stores.  Who wouldn't want a chic neon colored fur hat to brighten up a drab winter day?

2/16/09

FASHION WEEK: ALEXANDER WANG FW 09.

Alexander Wang Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearAlexander Wang Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Alexander Wang Fall 2009 Ready-to-WearAlexander Wang Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

One of my favorite shows so far is Alexander Wang's Fall/Winter '09 collection.  This more mature collection featured a predominantly black color palette and a significant amount of coordination in each look.  Long leathery legs melted seamlessly into identical leather boots and a tweed suit turned into somewhat of a tweed onesie due to the complementary boots featured in the look.    However, this matching never felt unimaginative and added a unique sense of cohesion to the line.  Textures supplanted color variety in this collection with the combination of fur and silk adding depth to monochromatic looks.   

My favorite look was a black bra-top dress with mesh detail, military boots, and a wide brimmed hat with a medieval chainmail-esque scarf.  The collection featured many form-fitting artfully cut dresses paired with ankle and full length leggings.  These sexy dresses were worn with military boots to create an interesting juxtaposition that resulted in a visually stimulating hardened femininity.   Baggier items such as a surprisingly tailored white boyfriend fit oxford were worn with leggings which added definition and maintained the cohesive fit of the collection.  Revamped suiting could be seen in the form of a cropped blazer with mariachi style high waist studded pants and an impeccably tailored low cut blazer and coordinating leggings.  
Overall this collection reflects maturity without abandoning the creative and edgy aesthetic of Alexander Wang.  The accomplishment of these 2 feats are the makings of a truly great designer.     

2/14/09

HAPPY FASHION WEEK!

Reviews on my favorite shows coming soon! 


ep50_carrie_on_runway.jpg picture by delavoguex




Thanks for reading!

2/12/09

THE ENIGMA OF "SLOPPY CHIC."


Zoey Kravitz : follower of "sloppy chic." 
In my French class there is this one guy that always looks very put together.  His style is simple: black rimmed glasses, a nice v-neck sweater with an oxford underneath, and dark denim jeans. One day I noticed something peculiar when he got up from his desk; his dress shoes appeared to be talking.  The soles of his shoes were so worn out that they were partially detached and when he walked they flapped up and down in rhythm with his stride.  The sight of these shoes left me puzzled.  It was not possible to overlook soles that loose and therefore the guy's decision to wear those shoes was most likely  intentional.  But why?
Sights like talking shoes are surely not an idiosyncrasy.  It is common to see women dressed in haphazardly arranged clothes filled with holes and shoes that are so dirty and worn in that it looks like the owner has walked through the Sahara dessert in them.  We now buy any item and intentionally mistreat it anticipating its artful ruin and "stylish" decomposition.  1,400 dollar YSL Muse bags are bought only to be neglectfully strewn onto the dirty classroom floor in order to achieve that perfect "worn in look."  We are now able to buy everything in a distressed or aged version from shirts to leather bags.  Whatever happened to patiently waiting for the beautiful and gradual darkening of brown leather that  tells the  history of a bag?  Instead we buy a contrived replica of this process in any store. 

Audrey Hepburn: the antithesis of "sloppy chic."  

This idea of "sloppy chic" wasn't always part of our culture.  Not too many years ago the sight of hole ridden clothes, unkempt hair, and excessively baggy clothing would have appalled women who would not be seen in pants in a public place.  During this time elegant clothes were still considered a luxury.  Events that we take for granted today such as travel were an elaborate affair filled with immaculate attire, trunks, and luggage.  This is a stark juxtaposition from the proclivity of sweatpants clad travelers that we see in airports today.    
So why has "sloppy chic" become such a norm today?  I believe this backlash against a more polished way of dressing stems from the complete lack of appreciation of luxury.  Simple but special items such as a perfectly tailored dress or constructed shoe made of the richest leather are marginalized due to people that constantly seek something novel without treasuring what is timeless. This lack of respect for clothes allows the mistreating of clothing to become completely acceptable.  

Sloppy dressing has become part of the relentless attempt to appear unique. Elegant dressing has been wrongly associated with pomposity, conformity, and inauthenticity. To escape these connotations people flock toward the sloppy end of the spectrum.The amount of people trying to achieve this disheveled look ultimately leads to the same unoriginality that sloppy chic followers are desperately trying to escape.. However, no one wants to admit that their beat up Balenciaga bag is the same as the one thousands of girls around the country carry.  

The movement towards sloppy chic is  one that reveals a great deal about the always changing aesthetics and values today.   Coco Chanel once said that "old clothes are like old friends" and I 'm sure you wouldn't treat an old friend like a piece of trash.  Or would you ? 

2/9/09

DOES THE RECESSION MEAN THE END OF THE "IT BAG"?



Remember these? If you don't, I don't blame you for erasing the memory of these bags from your mind, but a few years ago it is likely that you would have sold your first born to obtain either of these "it" bags. Meet the the Fendi Spy Bag and the Louis Vuitton Multicolore Bag which retail for $1,690 and $2,050 respectively. Both of these bags experienced a significant amount of popularity but where are they now?

They both can be found on the notorious Canal Street made of inferior materials by underpaid children in third world countries. What makes people buy these "it" bags in the first place? Sure the allure of the "it" bag is a strong force. At first glance your heart skips a beat and the desire to obtain this new eye catching item is instantly ignited. But what happens when the hype dies down, a new season begins, and you are left carrying the flashy "relic" of last season?

The popularity of the "it bag" is now declining. With the economy in shambles it is even less practical to buy an "it bag" that will be deemed passé in a matter of months. The huge reductions of these bags also reflect this reality. A sequined version of the Fendi Spy Bag that originally retailed at $5,490 is now on sale for $2,471, more than half off, and with department stores like Saks recently reducing prices by up to 75% these figures are becoming a common sight.



What can a stylish woman do in hard times like these? Stop investing money in the trendy and turn to the classic. Think bags like the Chanel flap bag - timeless and elegant. If classics aren't your aesthetic, opt for bags that are on the minimalistic side such as those by Givenchy (featured above). Avoid seasonal or obnoxiously flashy versions of bags. It is inevitable that these bags will lose their novelty quickly and be banished to the back of your closet. Buy bags in versatile colors that you know you will not grow tired of. Instead of buying the "bag of the season" choose a more obscure bag in the line. If you are willing to spend a large amount on a bag, spend wisely on one that you will love for years to come.

A designer bag is an investment and to invest in a bag that you will only wear for one season in this economic climate is bad business and fashion sense.

FLASHBACK: VIKTOR AND ROLF FW 06.

Viktor & Rolf Fall 2006 Ready-to-WearViktor & Rolf Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear




Viktor & Rolf Fall 2006 Ready-to-WearViktor & Rolf Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear


Many runway shows are forgettable but this one remains imprinted in my mind.   This collection completely matches my aesthetic and is the epitome of simple yet elegant.  The inspiration behind this show was the tradition in Holland to dip a baby's shoe in silver in order to "freeze a moment in time."  Viktor and Rolf's desire to "dip fashion in silver" was made real in this collection which featured numerous lustrous looks all made with real sterling silver.     The show featured a mostly black color pallette, with neutruals like taupe, ivory,  and charcoal gray also artfully added into the mix.   The collection included immacuately tailored black dresses, full skirts, and revamped outerwear. The show culminated in a wedding dress made completely of silver.    
The posture and piercing stares evoked a hyper feminitity that was heightened by the classical piece  that featured a women saying phrases such as  "Don't touch" and  "no communication of any kind."  The fencing masks that the models wore, which were  silver black, or made of hair, also embodied the "emotional sterility" of the show and gave the models a sense of anonimity which seemed to complement the overall 50's portrait of women that was present in the flawless makeup, hair, and overall styling.  The result is a haunting rendition of the 50's woman that is both enchanting and disturbingly realistic.  


2/8/09

I RECCOMEND: GIVENCHY PHENOMEN'EYE MASCARA.



A lot of mascaras boast that they can achieve amazing eyelash feats but when they are put to the test they fail miserably.  However, Givenchy Phenomen'eyes is the best mascara I have ever used.  The revolutionary spiked spherical brush allows you to grip every lash.  When you apply this mascara you can start from either side of your eyelid applying the mascara in small sections moving counter clockwise or clockwise around the eye rather than the standard top lid then bottom lid application technique.  The result is  beautiful long and separated full lashes for what Sephora describes as a "fanned-out panoramic effect".   This mascara is great for those hard to grip bottom lashes and allows you to achieve a Modern day Twiggy look (with the versatility of achieving exactly this look or a more toned down version): 


This mascara is available in a relatively long lasting tube at Sephora.com for $28. Which is worth the price for luxurious lashes.  


2/7/09

UGGS MEET EVENING WEAR?

UGG Classic Short in Aqua (click for larger)

While on our way to get dessert near Union Square my friend Dom and I saw something rather strange.  Sequined Uggs.  At first I didn't notice them because I was looking at the Ugg-wearer's LV Damier Neverfull bag (this bag seems to be an epidemic!), but then I looked down and saw some very bedazzled sequin adorned black Ugg boots.  I thought to myself would Uggs really take this  immortal trend to this extreme? But when I saw the silver tag at the back inscribed "UGG" my doubts were confirmed.  Dom and I  immediately looked at each other with the same puzzled face.   These boots seem to be a new addition to the Uggs collection because I could not find a picture of them anywhere, but picture the above boot with black sequins.  

What do you think of the idea of a sequined Ugg? Will these Uggs become the new perfect accessory for the classic little black dress?  Will women abandon their heels in favor of these bedazzled boots at their next nighttime rondezvous or cocktail party?  I hope not. 

THE BEAUTY OF ORGANIZATION.

Here's the truth: I am not a naturally organized person.   I've always detested planners, agendas, and organizers of all kinds,  especially those hideous ones that they gave out in high school that were emblazoned with the "complementary" school colors blue and yellow.  I realized that one of the main reasons why I disliked using a planner is that the one I was constantly exposed to was not my aesthetic. Earlier this year I set out to find a planner that was more stylish.  

One of the first nicer planners I found was a Moleskine: 


This notebook brand boasts that their products have been "used by European artists and thinkers  for the past two centuries, from Van Gogh to Picasso, from Ernest Hemingway to Bruce Chatwin." This planner was just what I was looking for aesthetically; simple but chic.  The acid free paper and inside pocket were also enticing features.    However, there was not enough room under each day to write and I soon gave up and reverted to my old system of trying to remember everything without writing it down.   I feared I would never find the right planner.  


One day while I was at Target with my sister I actually found one that caught my eye: 


So far I've been using this planner religiously.  It is just what I was looking for: a stylish planner with an effective layout.  It features a weekly layout with space for appointments on one side and a To Do list one one side for each day.  It also has a few pages on effective organizing that I found useful.  I feel so much more in control now that I have learned the benefits of time management and the effectiveness of writing important things down.  If all goes well with this planner I will hopefully acquire this one: 

Louis Vuitton Epi Leather agenda.  This agenda is GORGEOUS.  The beautiful textured leather in this rich purple color and the contrasting bright pink lining made me fall in love with this planner.  The refills are beautiful as well, with just the right amount of space to write and chic details such as LV monogram symbols framing the spiral binding.  If I can remain loyal to my organizing habits for a year I would like to reward myself with this agenda.  What a great incentive to become organized!


THE FIRST.

Hi, my name is Michelle and this is my blog The Chic Scribe. I am a Journalism major at NYU and my dream is to be a fashion writer for Vogue one day. I decided to create this blog because I love to write. Writing seems to be a dying entity among the mostly imaged based blogs of today and I'd like to change that.
Recently I've been hearing a lot of negative criticism towards the proclivity of blogs that are surfacing. However, I personally don't see this as a problem. Observation and thought are highly subjective processes that make the world interesting. Everyone has the power to formulate their own perspective on a myriad subjects and the amount of blogs that are in existence reflect that reality.

With this blog I offer you my perspective and a way for you to see the world through my eyes. Enjoy.