RODARTE FW 09.

Designers  Kate and Laura Mulleavy focused on textures and fabrics for the Rodarte Fall Winter 2009 collection.  The Mini dress silhouette was the canvas for beautifully constructed artful looks.    

 

Each look was worn with towering thigh high patent leather boots by Nicholas Kirkwood that wrapped closely around the model's spindly legs.  These bondage style boots had a hosiery effect that worked well with the clothing of this collection.    The nude matte makeup and slicked back hair resulted in an android like uniformity and  prevented any distraction from the visually stimulating looks. All of these elements created a romantic yet futuristic vibe that was incredibly striking.  

 

One of my favorite looks featured Kelly green silk  that was worked into a tinfoil like texture skirt and contrasted with it's delicate paper mache-esque neutral colored top.  Other looks featured fabrics that resembled marble or a water color painting.  One dress blended so perfectly with the model's skin it was as if she was wearing wallpaper.  Other looks had fabrics that were virtually copper and other metals.   The manipulation of fabrics truly played with our perception of reality.  Never have fabrics so closely take on qualities of stone and metal.  Many looks featured  arrays of material such as leather and silk working in perfect harmony in intricate collages.  

 

Knits also played a complementary role and could be seen in thick scarves and  fringed cardigans worn over the dresses.  They complemented looks without appearing as random embellishments.    In every look each piece fused together effortlessly creating seamless looks that were never over styled.  

 

Some may criticize this collection for it's lack of variety of silhouettes but it is clear that this was completely intentional.  The Mulleavys presented a collection that was literally fashion as art and changing the canvas would have made this collection less effective and extraordinary.  This stunning collection is fit to be displayed on the walls of any museum , but will look best displayed on the most versatile canvas of all: the woman.  

FASHION WEEK: PROENZA SCHOULER FW 09.

Proenza Schouler's Fall/Winter 2009 collection can be summed up in 3 words: clean, fresh, and modern.  

The beautiful textures and color palette stole the show in this collection. Luxurious fabrics such as tweed and silk  and rich colors worked in harmony to create an elegant and visually stimulating collection.  A gorgeous midnight blue cropped wrap neck pea coat shined next to a chic shade of charcoal gray pants.  A camel colored coat contrasted beautifully with its salt-and-pepper fur collar. Mixed tweeds were executed succesfully in layered looks.    Most looks included semi sheer tights and versatile copper toe platform heel boots that added to the cohesion of the collection.   The long cuffed winter short made many appearances paired with opaque colored tights; a very wearable look that is  perfect for Fall.  

Dresses were impeccably constructed and were a major cornerstone of the show.    Some of the most impressive ones came in rich colors of silk that were contrasted by black contouring or worn over sheer long sleeved basics. Spruce colored silk dipped effortlessly into inky black on a sleek off the shoulder dress. A dark violet dress with bustier details and quilted silk was breathtaking.  

Proenza Schouler FW 09 is one of the strongest collections I've seen this season.  Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez continue to be creative without abandoning their clean and tailored aesthetic.  This collection will be a major staple for the stylish "downtown girl" that values the classic over the trendy.    

FASHION WEEK: RAG AND BONE FW 09.

Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag and Bone showed a refreshingly modern collection this fashion week.   Never has utilitarian style looked so chic.  Every look was impeccably tailored.  Menswear pieces such as tuxedo jackets and double breasted vests were made subtly feminine without losing their masculine charm; androgyny at its best.    American classics such as the oxford were given a breath of fresh air when paired with a floral dress and an obi style belt.   Leggings were reworked with eye catching contour seams and contrasting fabrics and colors.  Even oxford pumps looked novel when worn with these innovative looks.  

The color palette featured a well selected array  of grays and blues with hints of red from flowers peeking from behind lapels to minimalist tassels hanging from the models necks. I immediately fell in love with the gray and abstract tweed tail coats which will likely be highly coveted items from this collection.  I was also impressed by the "haraki" pants, Rag and Bone's "answer to the dropped-crotched look."  These pants are a perfect harmony of baggy and tailored  and the laced legs adds a unique and visually stimulating touch.  

This collection was as cohesive as a uniform without adhering strictly to conventional standards.  A charming paradox resulting in a genius collection.